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[Dusty]

Shouldn't this thread be moved to "Just Like A Harley" 

OK fellow...that's the second Honda bashing comment I've read of yours today. 
Just remember, you're gonna have to sleep sometime during the Lonestar rally. 

[Ruger]

17ft lbs

[hipshot]

You shouldn't be having this problem. Change out the studs. I had to do that with Marigold's Shadow; the dealer just said we were responsible for checking them EVERY TIME SHE RIDES IT. New studs eliminated the problem.

[Ruger]

I guess I will have to look into doing that in Sep when my class ends.  I guess I will change the gaskets out at the same time.  What is the best method for removing the studs?  Honda gaskets or aftermarket?

Wade

[Ruger]

That is exactly the problem I'm having Jerry.  That sounds like it is definitely worth a try, and it shouldn't be as much trouble, as locktite, to get off when needed.  I can always do the studs latter.  I will have to see what I can find. Thanks.

Wade

[RobDogg]

Changing the studs isn't that hard but you'll need to take the exhaust off.  Don't let it leak too much for too long or you might get a burned valve.  Shouldn't take more than an hour to do the whole thing and that would probably be the end of the problem.

[Claw]

Why wouldn't  lock washers work? Seems that would be the easiest first attempt.

[VTeXan]

You shouldn't be having this problem. Change out the studs. I had to do that with Marigold's Shadow; the dealer just said we were responsible for checking them EVERY TIME SHE RIDES IT. New studs eliminated the problem.

I think it is his studs that have come loose.  The acorn nuts should get more difficult to get off the studs with heat.  Frequently with aftermarket exhausts the acorn nuts bottom out on the studs.  This might be something you want to check.  If your nuts bottomed out on your studs then when you fix it throw a couple of washers between the flange and the nut.

Brian

[Ruger]

I did the unthinkable, took it to the dealer, they put them on in the first place and I was in the area. They tourqued them a bit past 17flb and said if the don't hold they will try lockwashers.  I don't think they are bottomed out because I didn't see the stud move at all.  It seems that if the acorn nuts held on the stock pipes they should hold on these...wouldn't ya think?

[RobDogg]

it is likely that the acorn nuts are bottoming out, they do that on V&H for certain and you just throw a washer under them.

It's also possible that its the studs that are loosening and not the nuts. You might or might now be able to see the stud turn when you retorque.  A washer might resolve this (as above)

As for studs being bad, if they were ever overtorqued, the threads could have pulled. if they pulled the nut doesn't get a proper 'bite' and thus could cause the loosening.

[hipshot]

The nuts kept working loose on Marigold's Shadow; we had to retorque them after EVERY ride (and yes, we let it cool off and retorqued them cold). EVERY ride. The nice service manager at NORTHWEST HONDA (those of you who've been here awhile will recall that we have a history with those folks) told us that there is nothing that can be done about that, and that it's our responsibility to retorque them every time we ride (that's when I asked him why they hadn't put a torque wrench in the toolkit). At our insistence, he "fixed" the problem -- he buggered up the threads on the studs (that was his solution, not mine). We replaced the studs and we never had that problem again. The problem is that either the studs or the nuts are threaded off spec; the fit is too loose and the nuts continually vibrate loose. They should be torqued to 17 ft.lbs. cold (a bit less with some aftermarket exhaust systems, which have thinner flanges), and generally require light tweaking once or twice after new gaskets are installed. After that, occasional checks (every few thousand miles) are all that's required, and they should seldom be off spec on those checks. While buggering up the threads or using a high temperature thread locker is a temporary fix, it interferes with retorquing the nut later, and is not the proper course of action.

[Ruger]

Ok...Here's the deal,

The dealer agreed that there was a problem after they torqued them and they loosened up after only about 150 miles.  They replaced the studs and found that 2 were indeed bottomed out in the acorn nuts.  The studs were tightened into the heads.  They replaced the gaskets.  They replaced all the acorn nuts, added lock washers under them and torqued to spec.  I rode her home and the noticeable ticking that I am used to hearing from developing exhaust leaks, due to loosening, was gone.  I will just have to ride her and see how she does… but I think it is fixed.  BTW…no charge for the fix!   How cool is that?

[Ruger]

I guess not so cool...it is still getting loose.

[Ruger]

I removed the acorns nuts on the exhaust and added blue loc-tite.   I torqued them back down and in doing so I bent the rear pipe flange just slightly. Is this a problem? 
Though this process I talked with a different dealer and he said that the reason they were coming loose was because you could not run aftermarket pipes on an 1800 without a power commander.  He said the pipes make the bike run lean and get too hot causing expansion and loosening of the exhaust.  What the…

I checked spark plugs on both jugs and found them to be clean and tan in color, not white or black.

I could really use some insight here.  Is the slightly bent flange a problem?  Do I need a power commander?  Is this guy full of crap?  Will I ever get these pipes to stay tight or do I give up and put on the stock exhaust back on and forget it?

Thanks,
Wade

[snake]

The place that told you that you need a power commander to keep your exhaust nuts tight definitely sounds like a place to stay away from, IMO. Next thing you know they'llbe telling you that a trailer hitch would make your bike more streamlined and save on gas! Yeah, the metal expands and contracts, but a power commander, even conceeding that it could help your bike run a little cooler, is not a "fix" for the problem. It might be a nice improvement though. Clean and tan is how your plugs should be burning with a proper fuel mix, and you're already there. Did the loctite do the trick for you?