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[smooth x]

Anyone on this board done this? I thought the dealership would have been capable of such a menial task. Boy, that is what I get for thinking. They had my bike 2 weeks and could not get it done. I have the aeromach 6" risers, so I ordered the Valkerie cables as I have read to do. They say that they could not get it to work. I now realize that they don't have mechanics working for them, but they have uneducated and untrained folks doing the maintanance on our bikes. So, what I need is for someone who has done this to walk me through it. By the way the dealer I am speaking of is JOE HARRISON MOTORSPORTS.

[hipshot]

Well, if you wanna come to New Caney.....................

[snake]

Check with Paperpeddler SmoothX... He put R bars on his C before Sturgis a couple of years ago. Not sure if he still has 'em on.

[smooth x]

tHANKS WILL DO....

[TomVTX]

I've got the retro bars on my C.  If you have the 6" risers I think you're going to find that the bars are going to be way too high and the valk cable will not work. The throttle cables won't work either.  They are a stretch with stock risers and retro bars.  You need to go back to the stock risers in order for the retro bars to work with the valk cable.  I think Dusty Bill tried to do the retro bars with some 6" risers and ended up either putting stock risers back on or canning the project altogether.

Hope this helps.  It's not a hard job, but you have to have all the right cables (long ones) if you're going to keep 6" risers.  Personally I don't think you will like it that high.  I sit pretty tall on my bike, but can't see getting my arms/hands any higher than they are now.

[hipshot]

Jeff, I think that in order to work for Honda, one is required to swear a solemn oath to worship their ergonomic mandates: Only Honda knows what's comfortable for you. Back when I bought my X I found those stock C bars to be the most God-awfully uncomfortable bars I've ever had to endure. I attempted to switch to the bars I have now, and wanted to know the lengths of the lines on the X and on several other models, as I didn't have the money to switch to the Russell lines I wanted. Every single dealer I consulted (and it was several dealers) told me that they had no idea what the lengths were, would not check on it for me, and that it was very dangerous to change the bars. Naturally, none of them could identify or quantify those dangers. When Marigold bought her Shadow we researched the project beforehand and bought everything needed for the job; it was all Honda OEM items. The dealership was to swap the bars out before she picked up the bike. After a week, they said it couldn't be done. Too dangerous, won't work. So we picked the bike up and I did it. Apparently someone higher up at Honda wants to discourage such sacreligious concepts as believing that you know better than they do what's comfortable for you.

It's a relatively easy swap as long as you figure out ahead of time what you'll need, and I'm sure someone in the SA area has done it. Good luck. Tell Lori and the little one Marigold and I said hi.

[Dusty]

I did change mine and I have the 6" risers. I wanted them so I could relax my shoulders so I have them rolled down. My elbows rest against my ribs and it takes the strain off my neck and shoulders.
I did it just like Tappers write up except the throttle cables have to stay on the left side of the frame and then loop over the top and behind the right fork instead of in front. Trust me, that's the only way the stock throttle cable will work because in any other position the cables will bind in a sharp turn.
The clutch hose is tight also but it does work.

If you have the money I would suggest gettin longer everything. It just so happens that the position of the bars where everything would work, was comfortable for me.

If I never have to take the throttle assembly apart again, it will be too soon. 

Bill

[smooth x]

Thanks guys for all the help. Jerry I think I will check these guys out. Thanks again.

[smooth x]

Thanks Jim and Marigold for all your kindness. You guys are great. We should meet in the middle and plan a ride soon......

[paperpeddler]

Hey Smooth X, You need to put the stock risers back on with the retro bars for them to work.  I didn't change any of the cables and did all of the work myself.  I rode my bike to Sturgis and around SD. and Colorado.  Everytime I got in a tight corner I thought those big bars were going to break off in my hands.  When I got home from Sturgis I took them OFF.  They are not for me.  The X needs the type on them for the factory, with the added Risers for shoot  arm people.  Save your money,  Keep the regular bars with the risers you already have,

Regards Paperpeddler

[snake]

I put 1100 shadow bars (spirit) on my 1800 with 4" Aeromach risers. Not as wide, good lift, and leaves me leaned back more than the stock R bars did. I love them. Comfy

[icopus]

It CAN and HAS been done!

I rarely come here and post here even less, but I HAD to respond to this.

I'm short - 5'4".  I would not have the X if it were not possible to change the C bars to R bars with 6" risers.  Yep.  I got 'em both and I did it myself.

While riding straight, my arms are still extended but I'm no longer leaning over the tank.  But, I still have to lean over the tank during turning extremes such as when parking.  However, the difference is amazing and much more comfortable now.  This would easily jam up a taller person though forward controls might help. 

Though these pictures are in severe need of updating, the bike does have this mod ->
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=25868&highlight=icopus+vtx

I STRONGLY recommend the following;
1.  6" longer throttle cables.  If you don't, there's a very real possibility that the cable will bind, even when routed on the right side of the upper frame neck.  Also, it rubs real bad on the upper triple tree causing damage to it and the cable.
2.  Valkerie clutch line.  I'll be damned if I can remember which Valkerie.  Very sorry.  BUT, the correct one will match EXACTLY with the VTX one except the flexable rubber end will be longer after the pre-bent tube section.  This rubber section follows the handle bar up to the clutch reservoir.  Best bet would be to take your OEM VTX clutch line to a dealer and match it up there.
3.  Valkerie front brake line #45125-MZO-A41.  Same basic info as item number 2.
4.  PATIENCE!  It's a real PITA getting that clutch line out and then back in the bike.

For more information, see the last post in this thread ->
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20608&highlight=45125mzoa41

It's been several years since I've done this and don't remember much about it anymore.  But I hope this helps.

[Niterider]

Smooth X,

About 1 1/2 years ago, Hipshot and 1shot1kill helped me (i.e., did 99% of the work) to change out the stock handlebar on my '03 1800C for a retro handlebar.  They did an excellent job.  We exchanged the stock throttle cables for the retro cables (the retro cables are about 4" longer) and exchanged the front brake hose for the Valkyrie front brake hose (the Valkyrie brake hose was 3 or 4" longer).  I don't recall for sure whether we ran the new throttle cables down the left or right side, but I believe we ran them down the right side.  I'd be happy to check for you if you'd like.  We also kept the stock risers.  When the installation was complete, there was more than enough slack in the throttle cables and front brake hose when the wheel was turned all the way to the left.  In fact, there was so much slack in the throttle cables that I needed to put some fuel line hose around the throttle cable in a few spots to protect it from rubbing against my Memphis Fats windshield.  On the otherhand, it was necessary to move the clutch hose up by unclipping it from the clamp that secures it against the front of the frame at the point where the flexible part of the hose connects to the rigid part of the hose.  That created barely enough slack in the clutch hose so that it wouldn't bind or be overly stretched when the wheel was turned all the way to the right.  I drove the bike that way for over a year without any problems and would still be happy with that arrangement if the need hadn't arisen to get even more pullback for the handlebars.  This past summer I bought a Mustang three-piece touring seat.  Contrary to what the manufacturer states, the seat did not move me forward (although I have since discovered that the older two piece version of the same seat does).  In fact, the newer touring seat actually moved me back a lot when not using the included backrest and moved me back a little when using the backrest with the backrest adjusted all the way forward.  So, I needed to do something and decided to move the retro handlebar back further by installing Rivco 4" risers.  (The Rivco risers provide just as much pullback as the Aeromach 6" risers but don't provide as much lift.)  Since my clutch hose was already stretched as much as I felt comfortable with, I again enlised Hipshot's generous help, this time to replace the stock clutch hose with the retro clutch hose (which is identical in length to the C model hose over the rigid section but is 3" longer over the flexible section).  It was a bit of an effort to re-run the new clutch hose, but it wasn't so difficult that I couldn't do it myself in about 15 minutes with Jim standing over my shoulder.  Jim also stepped in to re-bend the rigid portion a bit so that the hose would be properly routed.  I'm very happy with the results.  There is still enough slack in the throttle cables, front brake hose and wiring harnesses, and there is also a proper amount of slack in the clutch hose--even with the additional length required for the Rivco risers.  I also have to credit Jim for the idea of replacing the stock clutch hose with the retro hose.  No one in the Honda system was sincerely willing to help, and no one on the TexasXriders or VTXOA board had any specific information about the interchangeability of clutch hoses between different Honda models.  So, I almost ended up having to buy a custom hose, which was not what I wanted to do--due to their much greater cost and due to the change in how the clutch would feel as a result of being actuated through a completely flexible hose.

Anyway, I wanted you to know that what you want to do is completely feasible and safe if you have the right parts.  When I turned to the board for advice, I did get one response from a Texas X rider who changed from C to R bars and replaced the stock risers with the Aeromach 6" risers.  In that case the respondent simply bent the stock clutch hose upward to allow it to reach, and he was satisfied with the results.  So, I suppose that is an option as well.

Good Luck.

Mike

[smooth x]

Thank you very much for the information. I ordered the Speigler Brake Line Kit  with 6 inches added as well as 6 inches added to the Clutch cable.  I also ordered the Barnett Throttle cables 6 inches longer. I am just going to have them put it on for me. I will post pics afterwards.

[Crewsn]

so i guess the "untrained and uneducated mechanics" were correct when they said they couldn't do the job?
not trying to start anything, but there are plenty of well trained mechanics that work at dealerships and some not so good mechanics as well. it's all to often we hear or read about the horror stories, but very rarely do we hear about the positive experiences. my point is this, where ever it is you plan on taking your business, do a little research. after a bad experience at a local dealer, i've made it a point to talk to the mechanics that will be working on my bike, most have been more than willing to answer my questions.
just a thought and good luck with the swap.