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Author Topic: Not Starting in Round Rock  (Read 12057 times)

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RedDragon

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #60 on: February 05, 2012, 09:58:44 AM »

Yes, I have nothing to contribute of value so I will post some more animated pics!  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah:
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bluestreak

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #61 on: February 05, 2012, 10:47:13 AM »

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alejandro1800vtx

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #62 on: February 05, 2012, 03:58:53 PM »

Yes, I have nothing to contribute of value so I will post some more animated pics!  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah:

I think your animated pics have lot's of value,  :rofl:

all say and done he din't even change the battery yet   :no no:
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SilverStreak

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #63 on: February 05, 2012, 07:53:35 PM »

Ok guys 3rd quarter on my DVR. Never went to David's this morning as I've gotten sick. The only test I managed was with my panicing wife's help. I put the meter on the battery while she held the throttle open while pushing the start button. Momentarily it goes from 12 volts to 9 volts but then jumps to 11 volts during cranking. What does it mean? My wife screwed up the first time, and started the bike with twisted throttle but not all the way. So I got a started bike with high revs. Now you know why I prefered not to use her assistance much.
ken
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alejandro1800vtx

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #64 on: February 06, 2012, 08:01:43 AM »

MINDS YOU NEED A NEW BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

go back to page 1  :rofl:

5 pages for a battery change this one need to be moved to the vault  :thumbup:
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bluestreak

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #65 on: February 06, 2012, 08:36:43 AM »

MINDS YOU NEED A NEW BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

go back to page 1  :rofl:

5 pages for a battery change this one need to be moved to the vault  :thumbup:

+1
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SilverStreak

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #66 on: February 06, 2012, 04:29:10 PM »

So it's not a bad battery or electrical....

Just a guess, but see if you have arc burns on the starter switch contacts.

That has been my worry. Don't want to chase my tail replacing stuff that wasn't the root of the problem.

With all due respect...........Stop chasing an elelctircal issue.  That's not your problem.  You said you had the battery checked and it checked out fine but I didn't suspect it in the first place by verture of "how" it was cranking.  If it was the battery, the solinoid would drop in and out and you'd hear the tell tale clicking sound of that process which is caused by a low voltage to the solinoids starting control circuit by verture of the starter dragging the system voltage down.  Solinoids, kill switches and starter buttons will not produce the slow cranking problem your bike is having.
So........... Do a compression test to rule out a stuck compression release.
For your sake I hope I'm wrong and I stand to be corrected.................because your not going to like to hear what it takes to fix the de-compression device.
Someone stated you just had the top end done.  Did they take the decompression device off the cam?
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SilverStreak

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #67 on: February 06, 2012, 04:39:45 PM »

So it is my battery? Because of the 9 volts on the meter while cranking?

Upon watching the video again, I noticed the bike cranks slowly for the first couple of revolutions, then YOU CAN actually hear what I believe to be the starter solenoid dropping out and then back in again. That's the clicking noise that can be heard before it cranks again.  The solenoid drops out only AFTER system voltage has been dragged down to such a point that the ECU is resetting upon every crank cycle by evidence of the FI light.  At that point, cranking HAS stopped because the solenoid has dropped out due to a lack of sufficient voltage to hold its coil in.  When it drops out, voltage recovers and the solenoid pulls back in and cranking begins again because he's still holding the button down. I make this statement based on the assumtion he's not moving the switch as to change it's position, thereby ruling out the switch as the reason why it's cranking intermittently.  The solenoid is not dropping out during the first couple of cranking revolutions while the engine IS cranking (albeit very slowly) and voltage is high enough to hold the solenoid coil in.  This proves the starter button switch is fine for the duration of the video, as long as we accept the fact he's not moving it enough to change it's operation and continuity during the video.

If the de-compressor is not faulty, as by evidence of testing it as I have suggested, at this point I'd suspect the battery as just being too weak to adequately crank the engine over and not the starter button.  In fact a weak battery is most likely the problem, short of having results from testing anything to prove otherwise.
YOU CAN PROVE WEATHER THE BATTERY IS GOOD OR NOT OR THE DE-COMPRESSOR IS FAULTY.......... BY TESTING THEM AS I DESCRIBED IN A PREVIOUSE POST.  Do some testing.
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SilverStreak

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #68 on: February 06, 2012, 06:39:54 PM »

Update gentlemen or ladies. After testing as I was instructed to do, with the volt meter on the pos and neg, cranking with full throttle I got anywhere between 9 volts on 2 tests, and 11 volts on one test. So I removed the battery and checked with a volt meter/load tester. It shows to be good, until I hit the load button, at which point it shows as weak. So I hooked it up to the trickle charger again. As I stated before, this is a relatively young battery, as I replaced the last one several months ago, not years. Not many miles on this one.

So at this point, after trickle charging, should I assume I should hook it back up to the load tester, push the button and see where I'm at? The last battery, failed at that point which is the reason I have this battery.

Are you all still thinking bad battery, or cell? Or solenoid, or compression relief valve?

BTW, thanks for hanging with me...I hope you don't think I'm not grateful for the support, because the fact is, I am! Confused, or purplexed aside.
Ken
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alejandro1800vtx

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #69 on: February 06, 2012, 06:57:02 PM »

Batery  :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
« Last Edit: February 06, 2012, 08:44:03 PM by alejandro1800vtx »
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j1mmyj4m

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #70 on: February 06, 2012, 08:07:57 PM »

The battery recently on my wife's previous car (that we just traded in) was showing signs of a starter issue.  I had full lights inside and out, but the starter would make that clicking sound.  I changed the starter out and it was the same issue (didn't test it first at autozone like a moron).

It ended up being that my cold cranking amps were about an 8th of what it was rated at, but the charge was perfect.  Bought a new battery and was good to go.

I'd try someone elses's battery that doesn't mind.
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RedDragon

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #71 on: February 06, 2012, 09:01:42 PM »

Battery!  :deadhorse:
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alejandro1800vtx

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #72 on: February 06, 2012, 09:14:41 PM »

Hes doing some more testing onthe lunar influence on the starter solenoid will report soon....... :c
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RedDragon

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #73 on: February 06, 2012, 09:27:46 PM »

Hes doing some more testing onthe lunar influence on the starter solenoid will report soon....... :c
:cantbelieve:  :rofl: These animated pics are  :cool2:
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bluestreak

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Re: Not Starting in Round Rock
« Reply #74 on: February 07, 2012, 10:15:19 AM »

The battery recently on my wife's previous car (that we just traded in) was showing signs of a starter issue.  I had full lights inside and out, but the starter would make that clicking sound.  I changed the starter out and it was the same issue (didn't test it first at autozone like a moron).

It ended up being that my cold cranking amps were about an 8th of what it was rated at, but the charge was perfect.  Bought a new battery and was good to go.

I'd try someone elses's battery that doesn't mind.

Even bad batteries can generate a voltage that appears to be fine when volt tested without a load on them.  This "surface voltage" is weak and will break down under a load which will reveal the true capacity of the battery when load tested.  That's why you load test them.  Headlights offer a very small capacity draw compared to a starter and often give a false indication of battery condition.  Cranking speed versus time has been the industry standard for years to determine battery condition but is rarely used anymore because people don't know how to do it.  The most popular standard test uses a resistor bank to simulate a load.
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