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[VTX-Dan]

Yesterday was kinda overcast and dreary, so I decided it was a good day to tinker.

When I bought my 05 1300C, the previous owner told me it was rejetted when the HK 3" Big Straights were installed.  He didn't have much information about the jetting, and I didn't know enough at the time to ask more questions.  He had the pipes and jets done at his local stealership.  He did say that he thought the engine was "over jetted.
The bike did seem a little rich on the low side.  It smelled rich at idle and would load-up and sputter or hesitate sometimes when I would roll on the throttle from idle.  I managed to take some of that out by tweaking the a/f screw setting.

Yesterday, I pulled the tank, pulled the airbox, and opened the top of the carb. I checked the needle and confirmed that it is aftermarket.  Thanks to Taz for helping to confirm.  So, it is true.  An aftermarket needle means aftermarket jets.  I did not remove the float bowl to check jet sizes because I intended to decap the airbox.
I followed a how-to thread from the cafe written by Bassdude.  It is a great write up.  I used a Dremmel with a small cut-off wheel to decap the airbox per the instructions.

Just as I got everything buttoned up, the heavy rain started.  So I haven't gotten to test the results with a ride.  However, I ran it in the garage, and the exhaust smell at idle isn't strong like it was before the decap.  Snapping the throttle at idle seems more responsive too.  I hope this will help with lean out the carb a bit.  In theory, it should help a lot.

In chatting with Taz, he suggested not changing any other carb settings.  I will ride it as-is and see if any additional tuning is needed.  Now I just need some more warm and clear weather like we had last week.  Not sure I'm going to get that this week.  I'll settle for cold and dry.

Thanks again, Rex, for helping a brutha out yesterday.  Your call was very helpful!
I will post results after I have had a chance to test ride.

[VTX-Dan]

*UPDATE*

So, I test rode on Wednesday while it was warm.  It didn't run as well as I had hoped.
It idled fine and ran about the same as before on the top end.  But there was a lot of popping and hesitation in the mid-range RPM.

I tried turning the A/F screw in a little to lean it out (it was originally set at about 2 turns out.)  Leaning the screw made it worse...a lot worse.
It idled okay, but there was even more popping in the mid-range and no power on the top end.

I turned the A/F screw out to 2.5 turns.  Idled well, but smelled rich, popped in the mid-range (with hesitation) but good power on the top end (improved over before the decap)

I turned the A/F screw out to about 3 turns.  Smelled rich at idle, but idled smoothly.  Less popping and more power in the mid-range, and very good power on the top end.

I rode home as it was getting dark and cold.  I called TAZ last night and shared my results.  He asked where the needle clip was located when I took it out during the decap.  The clip was in the 3rd position from the top, but it had one shim on top of the clip.  Huh? 
Apparently, some shops put a shim on top of the clip to keep the needle spring from disturbing the clip during normal function.

Rex recommended I move the clip one position down (4th from top), set the A/F screw to 2.5 turns out, and try it again.
I lowered the clip this evening after work and set the A/F.  Too cold to ride by the time I finished.  Admittedly, I'm kind of a wuss when it comes to riding in temps below 40F.
It looks like it will get into the low 60's tomorrow.  I'll give her a run tomorrow afternoon and report back.

I did start it in the garage after getting it all back together.  She started up just fine, but sure smells rich at idle.  I can't rev it much since I removed the baffles and replaced them with resonators.  It's pretty loud now, and my garage door is very close to my nextdoor neighbor's family room.  I don't want to be "that guy."  Rex said his smells rich at idle too.  I guess it is what it is.

[hooter]

Please keep posted up. I need to do my wife's 1300 and any pointers will be helpful. 

[VTX-Dan]

*UPDATE 2*

It warmed up pretty nicely today.
I headed out to test ride with the needle clip set on the 4th position from the top and A/F at 2.5 turns out.

I was surprised at the difference a clip position makes.  My X ran very strong from just over idle to WOT.  Riding around town was very different than before the mods.  It used to have a slight bog and hesitation just above idle as I rolled on the throttle.  The bog was gone.  I was all smiles until I got out on the highway.  I rode along at a steady throttle...in 5th gear between 60 and 65...there was some sputtering with an occasional pop. It sounded like it was popping up through the air box.  I thought it might be too rich after moving the clip down, so I turned the A/F screw in about 1/4 turn.  That adjustment didn't make much difference, so I turned it in another 1/4 turn.  That made the sputtering and popping worse.  So I turned the A/F screw out to about 2.75 turns.  The sputtering and popping almost went away.

I went back to the house and pulled into the garage. I spoke to Rex and he suggested lowering the clip to the 5th position.  I asked if a shim might work since it seemed almost there.  He said to give it a try....worse case scenario: open the carb again to lower to the 5th position if the shim didn't work.

I took a quick ride to Radio Shack and picked up the infamous bag o' washers (part #64-3022).  When you buy the bag, it contains 100 washers.  There are 20 each of #2, #4, #6, #8, and #10.  I used one of the #4 washers under the clip, and set the A/F back to 2.5 turns out.

Holy cow!  It is like a completely different bike.  It pulls so strong through all gears and in all throttle positions. 
I rode for about an hour and had only one issue.  I was decelerating with the clutch out (engine braking) and there was one pop.  I'm not sure if it popped through the pipes or through the carb.  It could have been from the cold weather.  It was getting pretty chilly by the time I finished my ride.

I plan on riding tomorrow, and I will keep my ears open for any more popping.

Hooter...you wanted feedback. I say do the mod.  I only wish I could give you more info on the aftermarket jets that are in my carb.  I don't know what size they are, but this bike runs like a scalded dog now.

The best part?  This mod only cost me $2.15
The bag of washers is $1.99 + tax.  It's a shame I only needed one washer from the bag.


If anyone needs any washers, I have 19 more of the #4.  I have 20 each of the others.

[TAZ]

Glad I could help Bro.   

Hooter, If you do your wife's bike and have any problems just give me a call.  281-352-6799.
If I can't trouble shoot it I am sure Jason (MRVTX) can.    ;-)

[hooter]

Glad I could help Bro.   

Hooter, If you do your wife's bike and have any problems just give me a call.  281-352-6799.
If I can't trouble shoot it I am sure Jason (MRVTX) can.    ;-)

Had Crobra's on it when I got it and the guy I bought it from had them installed when he bought it from a stealer. He said the carb hard been rejetted, to what, nobody knows. It's running rich at idle and developed hesitation and decell popping more often. I figured the hesitation was from maybe not being riden that much and the carb just gummed up or something. Sounds like the prob Dan was having so will give that a shot. I'll keep your phone number close at hand. Thanks y'all

[VTX-Dan]

It's running rich at idle and developed hesitation and decell popping more often.

If you haven't removed the PAIR valve, doing so might help with the decel popping.

I figured the hesitation was from maybe not being riden that much and the carb just gummed up or something. Sounds like the prob Dan was having so will give that a shot. I'll keep your phone number close at hand.

Yes, it sounds very similar.

I followed this how-to thread almost to the letter.
http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=41360

One piece of advice not listed in the how-to:
If you use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel, take your time.  The cut-off wheel doesn't take long to heat up, and then it starts melting plastic.  If the wheel loads up with plastic, it will sling molten globs in your face.  It is tough to get molten plastic off your lower lip....at least that's what I hear.

[TAZ]

So Dan, How was the ride today?

[VTX-Dan]

So Dan, How was the ride today?

It was like I was riding a different bike.  Just awesome.  It pulls so hard in all RPM ranges now.  I should have done this months ago.  I was really impressed by the low RPM torque.  I can coast down to 30 MPH in 5th gear, roll on the throttle, and it just pulls hard without loading up.

I only had two hiccups during about 3 hours of riding.  The first was a leaking fuel petcock.  I guess taking the tank off over and over to get the carb settings right worked the petcock loose.  I quick twist with a crescent wrench fixed it right up.  The second issue was a pop during decel.  It popped up through the carb again.  I'm not sure what causes that, but it only did it once. 
Anyone have any thoughts on what causes this pop through the carb?
I have always understood popping through the carb was a result of running lean.  That is not the case.  My carb is set rich.  I can smell it.

[TAZ]

Try taking the fuel mix screw in a quarter turn.

[TAZ]

Glad I could help Bro.   

Hooter, If you do your wife's bike and have any problems just give me a call.  281-352-6799.
If I can't trouble shoot it I am sure Jason (MRVTX) can.    ;-)

Had Crobra's on it when I got it and the guy I bought it from had them installed when he bought it from a stealer. He said the carb hard been rejetted, to what, nobody knows. It's running rich at idle and developed hesitation and decell popping more often. I figured the hesitation was from maybe not being riden that much and the carb just gummed up or something. Sounds like the prob Dan was having so will give that a shot. I'll keep your phone number close at hand. Thanks y'all

Hooter put a can of seafoam in it and top it off with gas and go for a 160 mile ride down back roads..  That way you are running at all kinds of different throttle positions.  Make sure half way threw the ride you hammer on it a few times and also at some point let it idle for about 20 minutes.  A tank in a 1300 should go around 180 mile using reserve.   That should clean out the carb real good.   You need to do that before you start making changes to the settings. ;-)

Again I am just a phone call away if you need some in put.

[xcaliber]

Hooter, you run on Miller , the bike runs on Gas, not the other way around!

[VTX-Dan]

Try taking the fuel mix screw in a quarter turn.

Will do.
I thought about that while I was riding yesterday, but it was running so well I didn't want to mess up a good thing.  I have the day off today, but my wife is having day surgery.  It is a minor thing, but she might need some tending to.  If the rain holds off, she might let me out for a quick ride.

[VTX-Dan]

Yet another update:

I finally got to ride through a full tank today.  I was pleasantly surprised to find that my average MPG went up a little after the decap and needle adjustments.
I averaged roughly 47 MPG on this tank.

I topped off the tank this morning before heading out. I rode 132 miles (indicated) before refueling and it took 2.8 gallons to top it off again. This was with pretty heavy winds during the whole ride.  Most of the time riding on this tank, I was facing crosswinds and headwinds.  It wasn't until after the refuel that I got to benefit from tailwinds.

She ran like a top all day.  I rode with 5 guys...all of them had Harleys.  Those things are dumpy...even the 96 cu in.  The quickest of the bunch (aside from my X) was, surprisingly, the 883 Sportster.  

Oh...and the sight of a heavy-set dude on a Road King at a stop light is priceless.  The engine shakes so bad, the dude looked like he was shivering.
He said, "Yeah...laugh it up.  The ladies love to sit on the back when it shakes."
I answered, "Perhaps, but they can't see your jiggling jowls from back there."

I think I just hijacked my own thread.