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[Dusty]

Sitting here at my desk yesterday thinking about what Hobo had said about borrowing a relay off of a tractor it dawned on me that most riding lawn mowers are 12v with electric start. Then I remembered seeing a small engine parts house with a big HONDA sign out front. I just had to check it out.
What the lady brought out was almost identical to the one I had taken off the bike. Slightly larger, (still fits and the bracket matches up) and the two smaller terminals are screw type instead of push on friction fit. Walk out price was $14.07 Compared to $65 from the local stealer and $45 plus shipping and a wait from HDL. That's a minimum of a $34 savings.
I have not tried it yet but I'm going to and I don't see why it wouldn't work with just a little modification to the small terminal wire connections. I'm going to hook it up temporary just to test it, since I have already ordered an OEM and it's suppose to be here today. I'll post up after I try it with a part number and hopefully a pic or two.  Just wish I had thought about this before I ordered from the stealer. 

[Gumbo]

Good find Dusty, please do post up results 

[POGOGOLF]

Good find Dusty, please do post up results 

Mine bit the dust about 2.5 years ago...it's an easy fix....after you buy a new battery thinking that's the problemo.      

[DEMON]

Sitting here at my desk yesterday thinking about what Hobo had said about borrowing a relay off of a tractor it dawned on me that most riding lawn mowers are 12v with electric start. Then I remembered seeing a small engine parts house with a big HONDA sign out front. I just had to check it out.
What the lady brought out was almost identical to the one I had taken off the bike. Slightly larger, (still fits and the bracket matches up) and the two smaller terminals are screw type instead of push on friction fit. Walk out price was $14.07 Compared to $65 from the local stealer and $45 plus shipping and a wait from HDL. That's a minimum of a $34 savings.
I have not tried it yet but I'm going to and I don't see why it wouldn't work with just a little modification to the small terminal wire connections. I'm going to hook it up temporary just to test it, since I have already ordered an OEM and it's suppose to be here today. I'll post up after I try it with a part number and hopefully a pic or two.  Just wish I had thought about this before I ordered from the stealer. 

 

hope it works for you, I have found lots of parts that interchange with minor mods and save a bunch of money....

[Dusty]

If I had any hair, I would pull it out.
Installed the lawn mower relay and had NOTHING! So, I assumed, the lawn mower relay wasn't the answer. Installed the new OEM relay, still nothing!!!! Sat and stared at it, read the manual, sat and stared some more and decided to trace the wires in the starter button. Took the starter button switch apart again and jumped across the two contacts that are inside the switch.
The Buck Rogers started right up.   So, I put a thin layer of solder on the contact (to build them up)  so they would make better contact. Started to put the switch back together and noticed that the other side of the switch contacts could be pryed up a little, which they needed because they were below the surface of the housing. Put the switch back together, push the button and she fired right up.   So, it was the starter button the whole time.  
  It appears that I have spent $85 bucks that I didn't need to spend on the OEM and the lawn mower relays and I still don't know if the lawn mower relay will work or if my old relay was bad (don't think it was) and you know, I have got to know on both accounts. Now my dilemma is, if all the relays work, which should I leave installed???  

Update.....Removed the OEM relay, installed the lawn mower relay, push the button and she fired up again!!!!!! Long story short is the lawn mower relay WILL WORK!!!! However.......I have not check the amps coming out of the relay to make sure it's within the limits. Whatever that is.

Update 2- Was just cruising the site and saw for the first time all the DIY articles that Brock got from the Ca. board. Found one about the starter button and it turns out the headlight runs through the terminals of the starter button. So my light issue may be with that switch as well.
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

[POGOGOLF]

If I had any hair, I would pull it out.
Installed the lawn mower relay and had NOTHING! So, I assumed, the lawn mower relay wasn't the answer. Installed the new OEM relay, still nothing!!!! Sat and stared at it, read the manual, sat and stared some more and decided to trace the wires in the starter button. Took the starter button switch apart again and jumped across the two contacts that are inside the switch.
The Buck Rogers started right up.   So, I put a thin layer of solder on the contact (to build them up)  so they would make better contact. Started to put the switch back together and noticed that the other side of the switch contacts could be pryed up a little, which they needed because they were below the surface of the housing. Put the switch back together, push the button and she fired right up.   So, it was the starter button the whole time.  
  It appears that I have spent $85 bucks that I didn't need to spend on the OEM and the lawn mower relays and I still don't know if the lawn mower relay will work or if my old relay was bad (don't think it was) and you know, I have got to know on both accounts. Now my dilemma is, if all the relays work, which should I leave installed???  

Update.....Removed the OEM relay, installed the lawn mower relay, push the button and she fired up again!!!!!! Long story short is the lawn mower relay WILL WORK!!!! However.......I have not check the amps coming out of the relay to make sure it's within the limits. Whatever that is.

Update 2- Was just cruising the site and saw for the first time all the DIY articles that Brock got from the Ca. board. Found one about the starter button and it turns out the headlight runs through the terminals of the starter button. So my light issue may be with that switch as well.
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

Yeppers, the headlight goes out when the starter button is tripped, that's also why it's a MUST to run your running lights through an extra/separate relay if you want to keep from frying those tiny-azzed little wires in your starter switch.

[Dusty]

Yeah, it's hard to believe that I have never noticed the light going out when I cranked the bike. If I did notice, I dang sure didn't do any in depth thinking as to why.
Now, have you figured out how to rebuild the starter switch so we don't have to pay the $50 + for all the other stuff that we have to buy just to get that switch. I spent about 2 hours searching on the web. There are a lot of switches out there.  Could not find a one that matches the one on our bikes. I know I could install a seperate starter switch some place. It just bugs me that I cannot just buy a replacement.
For now, I have it all working. I built the contacts up with solder and then filed them down with an emory board. Gonna take it out in a little while and see if it can hold up to the vibration.