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[kded4009]

This will be the 2nd time  . Replace stock push and pull throttle cables with Barnett's push and pull on a Baron's drag bar, and then replace the pull only with another pull only Barnett's... mmm . Currently the push only is now broken, is it that the Barnett's are no good ? both Breakages were at the throttle end of the nub holder at the throttle end. Is there something I doing wrong  (yea ya too much throttle..haha).

Anyways, would like suggestions if motion pro is better or as good? or go with Barnutt;s again?
Also, what's a easy way to put the cables on, was a B@#ch last time  , probably doing it the hard way.

thanks,
kded4009
   

[bluestreak]

Todays cables are far superior to the old style cables made years ago.  Most are all internally lined with some type of polymer sleeve lining (teflon) which makes the internal friction much less than they use to have , so we don't see the breakage rates anywhere close to what they use to be........... as long as they are lubed and water does not get in the cable sheath.

If your using an aftermarket housing...............make sure the housing incorprates a water drain hole so water cannot drain into the cable sheath and rust it.  Housings with cables connected at the bottom half of the housing are prone to water entry into the cables.
Was the broken cable dragging or stuck inside the sheath?  If yes.............it may have rusted inside the sheath and produced enough drag to eventually break the cable at or near the ferrel. 

Inspect the location where it's breaking.
Is the cable pulling out of the throttle tube ferrel (nub as you call it) where it's soldered onto the cable? 
OR 
Is the stranded cable breaking next to it?

If it's pulling out of the ferrel and you don't have an unusual amount of throttle body resistance or internal drag in the cable...........then it was just a bad solder job and it just pulled out of the ferrel.  Cables are made on a production line by a specific process.  They could of have made a bad lot durring production and not soldered the ferrel good enough.  You mave have just gotten two poorly manufactured cables.

Is the stranded cable itself actually breaking adjacent to the ferrel?
If yes...........How far from the ferrel did it break and How far from the ferrel did the solder wick up the cable when it was made? 
Ideally you don't want ANY solder creeping up the cable durring the soldering process.  That can make the cable more stiff and brittle to breakage if throttle action is bending the cable at this point when you roll the throttle on.  If your next cable has solder where it's trying to bend, there's nothing you can do about that but you can possiably reduce the bending action by extending groove in the tube where the cable travels.  Cut the groove deeper in the tube and continue it out passed the point where the solder stops on the cable.  Adjust the cable to get more free play in it before the throttle plate opens. This will allow the cable to be more stright before tension is put on that section of cable that has solder on it.

Inspect the hole in the throttle tube where the ferrel rests.  Lube it well.  The ferrel must be able to freely rotate in it's setting to avoid binding the cable.  Make sure the cable is being pulled striaght and inline with the location where the cable sheath is mounted into the housing. Simulate throttle action and watch how the ferrel rotates when you twist the throttle.  The ferrel must freely rotate and allow the cable lay down against the tube all the way around it's diameter.