This is an article by Tapper for the
1800 that I found on the VTXOA board. Thought I would stick here for those that can use the info.
"I do VTX work in the DFW area, and after several years, and a lot of bikes, along with actively participating in this forum with a lot of other folks, I've come up with a
modified maintenance schedule for the VTX1800 that I suggest for all the bikes I maintain. I thought I'd share it with you, along with some of the reasoning behind it. If you can see something I've forgotten, or think something should be done differently, then please speak up. Help me make this a better guide.
Please note, you're perfectly safe using the Honda schedule. This just represents a schedule that I believe offers improvements, and saves a little money too. All mileages can be considered "neighborhood" numbers.
Updated after good suggestions from other members. This is a living document.
Daily
1. Spot-check fasteners
2. Check tire air pressure.
3. Eyeball the bike, looking for anything out of place.
4. Eyeball coolant level.
Monthly
1. Clean K&N air filter if you have one. You've got a re-usuable filter, and your bike will perform better, and get better mileage when the filter is clean. Don't be lazy.
At every tire change
1. Inspect wheel bearings
2. Inspect flange bearing in rear wheel
3. Ensure moly paste was used to lubricate the drive splines
4. New tube for spoked tires
5. Verify pinch bolt torque
6. Verify axle bolt torque
7. Verify correct adjustment of front wheel spacing
8. Replace tube, if spoked wheel
0 miles
1. Buy a service manual. You'll need it, even if you aren't planning to do your own wrenching. The manual is an invaluable aid to keeping your bike running right.
2. Spot-check fasteners
3. Check tire air pressure.
4. Check oil level.
5. Check headlight aim
Ride your bike vigorously. Don't baby it. Get the rpms up. Don't roll down the road with the mill barely turning rpms.
600 Miles
1. Change crankcase oil. Use a cheap dino oil, it won't be in there very long. No need to change filter yet. This is just a flush change, designed to get the wear metals out of the motor before they can accelerate wear.
2. Change final drive oil. Use a good 75w-90 synthetic like Amsoil or Mobil One. I suggest my "Gear Gravy" mix for best results.
3. Bleed and flush all brake systems and the clutch, using Valvoline synpower. This helps get rid of particulates left in lines from manufacturing, bleeds any air out of system from factory fill and shipping, and gets a good fluid in there to start with.
4. Adjust throttle play - seldom comes correct from factory.
5. Synchronize throttle body - always good to get things where they need to be.
6. Check and adjust steering stem - usually right from factory, but always a good idea to confirm this. Note - Honda sets the stem tension much lighter than the manual suggests, on the order of one pound, using the tension check suggested.
7. Check shock bushings - these sometimes get crushed during factory install.
8. Check and/or set the valve lash - Honda is notorious for sending out bikes with the valve lash on the snug side. You want your rocker spindles to develop a wear pattern based on the arc created by the correct valve lash. Setting this early, will go a long way towards developing valves which seldom come out of spec.
9. Correctly set idle - 900-950rpm. Don't be lured into setting your idle too low to make your bike "lope" like a Harley. You have a double pin crank. If your bike lopes, it just means it's trying to stall.
10. Fasteners - Using the service manual, and a good calibrated torque wrench, verify as many fasteners as you can get to. Loosen and re-tighten your axle bolts. Loosen and re-tighten your fork pinch bolts. Do not test the caliper mounting bolts = they have locktite on them that you'll break the bond on if you test them. Be thorough here. Use a little silicone grease on fasteners that show rust to waterproof them.
1200 - 1500 miles
1. Change oil to Amsoil 10w-40. We're basically flushing all the early wear metal out of the motor this way.
2. Change oil filter.
Every 4000 miles
1. Check spark plugs. Clean them if dirty. Inspect electrode gap.
2. Do another comprehensive fastener check.
3. Inspect brake pads
4. Inspect tire wear
5. Give the bike a comprehensive eyeball check, looking for anything out of whack. Be thorough.
6. (Optional) Replace oil filter. Now start bike, let idle one minute, then stop motor and top off crankcase oil.
7. Check rear shock bushings
8. Inspect the bottom of the water pump looking for signs of coolant weep. Replace pump if you see any wetness there.
Every 8,000 miles
1. All 4,000 mile items
2. Inspect and/or adjust valve lash
3. Replace crankcase oil with new Amsoil 10w40
4. Replace oil filter.
5. Replace final drive oil
6. Set throttle body sync
7. Bleed and flush both brake systems and the clutch with valvoline synpower brake fluid.
8. Check and adjust steering stem - look for bad bearings, incorrect stem tension, etc.
9. Adjust throttle play
10. Set the idle
11. Check headlight aim
12. Fasteners - Using the service manual, and a good calibrated torque wrench, verify as many fasteners as you can get to. Loosen and re-tighten your axle bolts. Loosen and re-tighten your fork pinch bolts. Do not test the caliper mounting bolts = they have locktite on them that you'll break the bond on if you test them. Be thorough here. Use a little silicone grease on fasteners that show rust to waterproof them.
13. Clean radiator cap
Every 20,000 Miles
1. Replace coolant (Silicate Free Only)
2. Replace fuel filter(s)
3. Replace battery
4. Replace headlight bulb
5. Replace turn indicator bulbs
6. Lubricate throtle cables
7. Send an oil sample off to Blackstone Labs. Pay attention to the wear metals, since this gives you an indication of wear inside your motor where you can't see it."
_________________
Tapper
Texas X Riders
VTXOA.com
