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Author Topic: Exhaust  (Read 815 times)

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Chad

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Exhaust
« on: September 04, 2009, 07:34:31 PM »

 When you replace the stock exhaust do you just get new factory gaskets for the new exhaust?? Taking mine off to work on it and just wonder would the gaskets just new factory ones or would they be special for my HK sideburners?? If I forget thanks for your help!  ;D
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RIP Torque Dec.18,1975-Apr.29,2009

larry_357

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Re: Exhaust
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2009, 07:45:01 PM »

 Just replace the crush gaskets and sometimes you can get by without but they are not that expensive to replace each time you have the exausts off the bike.I do ot know if you can get them at a regular car parts store or not might have to wait till Tuesday when the steeler is open
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Xwrecker

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Re: Exhaust
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2009, 07:52:35 PM »

Look for these Chad.... The gaskets are the same no matter which pipes you get. Just "pick" the old ones out and install new ones. 

Exhaust Crush Gasket:
Napa/Victor: F12329orF7283
Walker: 31396
Maremont: G184
Marwill: G647B
Midas: EN1837(New521817)
Imco: 124647
Fel Pro 60569
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Chad

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Re: Exhaust
« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2009, 05:16:27 AM »

Thanks
 :thumbup:
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RIP Torque Dec.18,1975-Apr.29,2009

hipshot

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Re: Exhaust
« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2009, 08:40:03 AM »

Chad, I don't know how thick the flanges are on your pipes, but many aftermarket pipes have thinner flanges than the OEM system. Torquing the nuts to the recommended 17ft.lbs. will distort the thinner flanges, and then you end up jamming the acorn nut onto the stud. Some have discarded the acorn nut and used an open nut. Some have buffered the flange with washers. Something I've tried (along with torquing to 15# rather than 17), and it seems to work, is to leave the old, compressed gaskets in place and put the new ones in over them. They seal just fine and that precludes having to use washers or open nuts. Another option, which makes installation easier, is to remove the studs and replace them with Allen or Torx bolts. No nuts to worry about and you don't have to fight the flanges over the studs when you hang the pipes.

Another thing you might want to do is wire-brush the area where your gaskets seat and coat it liberally with anti-seize compound. That holds the gasket in place while you fight the pipes, as well as making it easier to remove the next time. You should also put some on the studs, or on the machine bolts if you do the swap.
« Last Edit: September 05, 2009, 08:41:36 AM by hipshot »
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